13/05/2010

East and North

Tuesday May 11
Gently fluttering snowflakes greeted the curtain opening this morning, 0C but still no wind to speak of. Maybe the north east coast would be the best bet. Via Lochindorb of course. A beautiful Black-throated Diver floated in the middle of the loch, bill well tucked away. He did wake up to show himself in all his beauty before tucking away again.
Findhorn Bay was notable for the number of plane spotters around the RAF Kinloss runway. Apparently an exercise taking place, we saw about three large planes take off, none of them a Nimrod which has been replaced I know. I think one was a Russian plane. Two Sandwich Terns and a lone Gannet on an otherwise empty sea.
The usually productive Burghead Bay wa similarly barren. Two Curlews and 4 Ringed Plovers on the rocks at high tide, a single Guillemot out at sea. How disappointing.
Culbin Sands and Cloddymoss........no better. One Blackcap. The whole day was punctuated by some very heavy sleet showers too.
Our first Swift before Tesco shopping at Inverness and driving to Aviemore to have another go for Dipper. Instant success. Both Dippers came to the nest carrying food. We were obviously too close for comfort, a few quick pics and away. The nest is very near the bridge on which we were standing.





Back to the chalet to unpack the shopping, collect our laptops and off to the Hotel to access the internet. We had farming to do ! I had 83 Emails awaiting my attention including one from Pauline at Mellon Charles with details of the Red Kite feeding station they’d visited in southern Scotland.
We intend making an early start for Dunnett Head to-morrow. Fingers crossed for better birding.

May 12
I didn’t expect to wake to snow lying on the ground. Not a lot but enough.


The A9 was shrouded in cloud, snow on the ground and the delicate bare branches of the Birch magically encrusted with heavy frost. It looked like a Christmas grotto scene. Should we continue?


Starting the descent into Inverness, it was as though a curtain had been drawn. Cloud behind us, cloudless blue sky in front. Amazing.
The drive to Embo on the Dornoch Firth is scenically stunning, it’s the sun that does it. Our usual drive through the caravan park to the stone jetty at the end, always remembered for Bridget’s excellent fruit cake. About 60 Long-tailed Ducks bobbed about on the calm sea, diving in unison before corking back to the surface. The only duck I can think of which is lovelier in wiinter plumage.
Past the wallowing Grey Seals to breakfast at The Mound, immediately on the left over the Dornoch bridge. It’s a lovely parking spot.

Brora for the papers before turning off at Helmsdale for the Flow Country road . Pam loves it. The first part is along a tumbling, stony, mountain river, gorse covered hills on either side, before reaching the stretches of lichen festooned, stunted growth, sessile oaks. The vista soon becomes bleak and extensive, peat bog, lochs and heather. An acquired taste. Two miles before Kinbrace, a Golden Eagle idled its way from east to west, giving good views.
Forsinard station - in the middle of emptiness - doubles as an information centre run by the RSPB. We didn’t stop to-day but we did for the half a dozen black-aproned Golden Plover on the pasture just below. The season is definitely late, the Marsh Marigolds photographed in full flower last year are only beginning to unfurl.
Castletown, overlooking Dunnett Bay, has a disused harbour area where we can park on a raised section to scan the bay. At first look, it seemed empty apart from a nearby Great Northern Diver. Scanning with scopes produced another flock of Long-tailed Ducks, a small group of Common Scoter, half a dozen scampering Sanderling and a smattering of Razorbills plus a single Puffin. A Bonxie flew steadily along the far cliff before disappearing, disinterested in the few Common Terns, a Red-throated Diver hove into view. This place never lets us down.
It’s a 3 mile drive out to Dunnett Head, punctuated by a walk down to St John’s Pool. The track is being improved by laying some rather rough stones on the wettest bits. Some areas have smaller gravel, much more comfortable walking. As we approached the hide, Arctic Terns screamed into the air above us, giving us a great aerial display, including courtship flight.



Shame the hide always faces into the light, it makes photos silhouettes. A relatively near pair strutted on a shingle island before settling to start a scrape.



Lunch at Dunnett Head car park, the Orkneys look within touching distance from here. The fenced off viewing area is very small, down a steep path and, at the edge of the cliff. All three Auks were visible as were regular squadrons of Kittiwakes, inspecting Fulmars and a few Gannets. A Rock Pipit paid a quick and wary visit as we were leaving.


A lovely day was marred by a 3 mile, 65 minute tailback on the stretch of road leading down to the Cromarty Bridge. An accident. It had all been cleared away by the time we were allowed through, many police but the ambulance and recovery truck had gone. Home at 7.40 for a hastily cooked dinner.

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